After some fifty years, and having travelled on most roads, tracks, or made their own. Plus what we have found here in Australia. We have found out what breaks, what needs pre raid preparation, and what we need and not need to take. The last thing to do on raid is to be having to be repairing your car, all of the time. On raid maintenance, preventative maintenance, breakdown, accident, or total disaster. We will all pitch in and help. Some one always has something for some one in trouble whether it be a crankshaft, or a beer. But if you could have prevented it buy proper pre raid preparation, you may be on your own. And miss the sights. When preparing your car make sure it would pass, your local road worthy, mot or control technical . The following is taken from the Citroen publication ICI Commence L , adventure. The modifications I will point out are what I consider applicable to Australian conditions. Learnt by me and many other raiders since our first raid in 1988. Both the easy and hard ways. Being able to drive, and read the road helps. The harder and faster, you want to drive your car, the more modification you will need to do. If you want to sight see, and have a nice duck and want to do the minimum but sensible modifications All these modifications can be done in various ways, they don’t have to be exactly the same as the book Do not over modify or reinforce because it may break at the next weakest point.

This is a guide for A series cars. But other model Citroens are shown in same book.

Weld a gusset into all arms in figure .1 I welded two rectangle strips , of 30 mm x length no more than 1 mm thick. Weld and shape this over the joining weld, down each side of the arms. Weld for 10 mm then leave a space of 25 mm then weld again. Don’t weld continuously, as you may distort the arm. This way lets the arm flex, and should you hit something that hard, the arm will bend and not do more serious damage. And gives you a second chance at repairing the arm.

In figure 4 - I feel the gusset will make the arm to rigid, and not flex or bend . And should you hit something that hard you may shear off the suspension bolts or break the steering and axel tubes.

In figure 1A - weld a brace onto suspension stop.

In figure 1B - Cut a screwdriver slot into all suspension bolts, at the 10 mm end. Should you tear the steering or axel tubes off, you can easily remove the broken bolt, especially on the rear axel.

In figure 1C - The old Hartford shocks will still do the job, make shore they are dry, no grease, adjusted and bring a spare set. Those cars with telescopic shocks. Fit new ones all round, they’re quite good after market shocks suitable for off road and pop cross work. Not available in AUS. Bring spare front shock LH RH mounting plate to axel. As we have broken them on raid. Fit high tensile 10 mm bolts.

In figure 4A - Fit a Visa type middle gaiter boot. Bring a spare wheel bearing plus seals, 2 axel arm bearings and seals . Fit new drive shaft boots all round, and bring a spare set

This is optional we don’t seam to damage it. May be if we break a suspension rod but we have not done this that often. Bring a spare front and rear rods.

Figure 2A - Weld a brace on to the suspension stop.

Figure 2B - Check welding on the pulling points off all arms, we have seen cracking.

Figure 3

Do fit a sump guard , like one shown or a 5 mm aluminium plate. Make sure it covers from the front engine mount bolt holes to behind the exhaust cross box. Cut holes for the drain plugs . Fit a tow hook on the front Make sure the guards can easily be removed and refitted.

In figure 5

Fit a rubber tube around the brake line then tape to suspension arm full length. Check all brake lines to make sure they secured down and not under tension.

In figure 5A - The inertia dampers are ok if fitted, make for a much more comfortable ride. Make sure they are not sized, have broken springs, and have the correct amount and weight of oil in them If they don’t work they will do more harm than good.

In figure 6

Weld a brace 20 X 20 X 5 mm angle mild steel. Across the back of the steering rack, between each mounting lug. Once again weld for 15 mm leave a 25mm space weld again.

Figure 6A - Optional if you know you have a good reinforced frame, chassis, no rust. But if in doubt about your frame rust, age, or damage. Fit a universal joint, removed from an Citroen GS or early CX steering column.

Figure 6B - Weld a brace onto the rear engine mount bracket.

In figure 7

Fit a sump guard under the petrol tank. Similar to the front one making sure that stones cannot wedge them selves between the guard and the tank. Fully seal at foreword front face. If you use a solid plate. On plastic tanks fit a heat shield, between guard and tank. In the heat they been to fuse together. Cut a hole for the drain plug if fitted.

Figure 7A - Shorten the exhaust tail pipe, or leave off all together.

In figure 8

Clamp down rubber dust boots on spring pots. Wire clips together on knife edges.
Bring spare knife edges, check size and clips.

Fit a clip around gear lever rubber on gear box.

Fit gussets Into your frame , made up from 1 mm steel sheet drilled and plug welded in. On top use the existing bolts, holding the body on.

In figure 11A and D - Make full U channel section Fit between axel bolts and spring pot Front and rear of frame.

Figure 11 B - Optional, unless you intend to give your car a hard time. But weld a reinforcing bracket onto suspension stop.

Figure 11C - Make full U section or L section depending on your frame or type size, of engine.

Weld between axle bolts and tow hook on frame. Also fit an L section gusset on to the rear leg of frame weld between axel bolts and tow hook for towing the caravan.

In figure 12

The cutting out of the rear guards is optional. Make sure you can easily remove them, When driving through black soil, sticks like shit to a blanket.

In figure 13 and 14

These fittings are optional. Driving, fog lights wont be needed as we shouldn’t driving far at night. Bull and adventure bumper bars just add extra weight, and if you are going to hit something here it will be big. Sand boards? May bring mats instead. For raid 2000 it might be an idea to bring chains.

Some suggestions of what to do in pre raid preparations, and what to bring in the way of spare parts. If you have a modified car, you will have to cover the spares parts yourself.

Not everybody needs to bring these parts check amongst yourselves, to make sure your cars are covered. Distribute parts between cars to keep weight down. Parts marked with a # should be fully serviced before raid.

Parts marked with a* every car should bring.

Engine and gear box mounts#, Head light lens, Set of light bulbs* Fuses* Electrical wire,*Alternator brushes , Alternator drive belt*, Voltage regulator*, Alternator,# Starter motor, # Ignition coil, Points condenser* Ignition box Cooling fan* , Fan pulley,* 3 part clutch kit both types, Cultch cable, Petrol pump* Petrol filter* Fuel line* Air filter* Rubber air goose neck check type,* Air cleaner box, Clutch fork and rod, Clutch #, Ignition Leeds,* Spark plugs*, Point cam, Engine# valves, crank , cam oil pump, oil line, Oil filter*, Gasket set*, Various nuts and bolts, Sump plug, Oil cooler, Electrical tape, Cable ties, Hose clamps, Carburettor, Fuel float, Needle and seat, Idle jet, Throttle cable, Barrels pistons, rings, Wheel bearings plus seals, Suspension bearings and seals and castle nut, Front shocks mount plates, Shock absorbers # Knife edges and clips*, Spring pot rods and eyes, Suspension#, Axle bolts.

Set of suspension arms, Steering rods, Gear box# various bearings, cluster gear, rear box cover; windscreen, plastic emergency screen cover*, Brakes# , Brake fluid*, Brake calliper, piston, Hydraulic pipe and piston seals , Brake discs, Brake line repair kit, Metal gussets for frame repair First aid kit,* 20liter jerry can*, 20 litre water can*, Wiper blades*, All special tools , Small hand tools,* Tire tubes, * Tire pump*, Tire lever*, Tire and tube repair kit*, Tire valves, * Wheel nuts*, Drive shafts plus nuts and bolts, Drive shafts#, Full set of drive shaft boots*,Engine and gear oils*, Compass ,* GPS, Maps , Workshop manuals, Tow rope*, Torch, Lead lamp*, Duct and gaffer tape*, ETC.

Special Items That Need Attention.

The air cleaner, make sure it is solid, air, tight, no leeks, sealed, secured down properly. And not suffer from fatigue and vibration, then fit a UNI FILTER on to the air cleaner inlet. This is a special oil socked foam rubber tubular shaped filter, held on with a cable tie. This will have to be washed out daily, in turpentine and re oiled.

Carry two spare wheels and tyres.

The 125 and 135 mm size tyres are no good for off road raiding, to many punctures. And you have to have too high tyer pressure, to try and make them last. Witch will give you suspension arm failure, and over work the shock absorbers. They all right on the black top, or use them till they drop. 145 mm X 380 tyres you could even go to 155 mm they are a lot heavier in the side walls, so you can run normal pressure, which will cause less damage to your car, and give you more time sight seeing than repairing your own punctures. The same applies for other models.

Other idea’s, carry all of spares, clothing, food etc, in cheap light sealed plastic stackable containers. Secure your petrol and water containers down. If you think you need it you probably don’t, so don’t bring it. Any excess weight you get rid of .Fit plastic side and rear glasses, Rear seat etc. Make and fit a shade cloth roof.

Owners of other models should confer with other raiders. As to what they should all take, in the way of essential spares, and other spares.

I have included the section on the GS , cradle reinforcing . Just to give you GS raiders something to worry about.

Cheers bastards
David Gries
March 2000